What is GHK-Cu? It is a small peptide bound to copper, used as an ingredient in serums and creams. On a cosmetic ingredient list it appears under its INCI name, Copper Tripeptide-1. This guide explains what it is, how formulators work with it, and how far the evidence goes.
What is GHK-Cu made of?
GHK is a tripeptide, a chain of three amino acids: glycine, histidine and lysine. It binds readily to copper(II) ions, and the resulting complex is GHK-Cu. The copper gives raw material and finished products their distinctive blue colour. You can look up cosmetic ingredient names and functions in the European Commission’s CosIng database.
How is copper tripeptide-1 used in skincare?
Copper tripeptide-1 is mostly used in water-based serums and light creams, usually at low concentrations. Formulators generally consider three things:
- Solubility: it dissolves in water, so it belongs in the water phase of a formula.
- Compatibility: strong acids, high-strength vitamin C and chelating agents such as EDTA can destabilise the copper complex.
- Colour: the blue tint can carry through to the finished product at higher concentrations.
What does the evidence on GHK-Cu cover?
GHK-Cu has been studied for decades. A 2018 review by Pickart and Margolina summarises much of this work, including gene-expression data. It is worth reading with some caution: a large share of the research is laboratory or animal work, and human skin studies tend to be small. Results from a lab dish do not tell you how a particular finished product will perform on skin.
In the UK, a cosmetic is for cleaning, perfuming, protecting or changing the appearance of the skin and similar external parts of the body. Claims that a product treats a medical condition would take it outside cosmetics law. That is why we describe GHK-Cu as a formulation ingredient and make no claims about treating any condition.
GHK-Cu vs Pal-GHK
| Feature | GHK-Cu | Pal-GHK |
|---|---|---|
| INCI name | Copper Tripeptide-1 | Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 |
| Contains copper? | Yes | No |
| Colour | Blue | Colourless to off-white |
| Formulation fit | Water-based | Oil-compatible, suits emulsions |
What do UK formulators need to know?
A raw ingredient is not a finished cosmetic. If you make a product to sell, it must meet the UK Cosmetics Regulation, including a safety assessment and a responsible person. Read the UK guidance on making cosmetics available in Great Britain before you start selling.
We supply GHK-Cu 50mg, GHK-Cu 100mg and Pal-GHK as raw cosmetic ingredients. They are not for injection or ingestion. You can see the full range under cosmetic ingredients.